The sentimental gastronomies of ‘Taiwan Travelogue’

In 1938, the Japanese writer Chizuko Aoyama embarked upon an extensive tour of Taiwan to celebrate the film adaptation of her novel “A Record of Youth,” which had proven to be a hit with local audiences. Thanks to financial sponsorship from the Government-General of Taiwan, Chizuko would spend a full year zigzagging across the first colony and crown jewel of the erstwhile Empire of Japan.

Chizuko was accompanied by interpreter Ong Tshian-hoh, alternately known in Mandarin and Japanese as Wang Chien-ho or O Chizuru, for most of this voyage. The relationship between the two women, mediated through the island’s splendor of gastronomic offerings, forms the narrative backbone of Chizuko’s “Taiwan Travelogue” — a memoir that was nearly lost to the mists of time until contemporary Taiwanese writer Yang Shuang-zi rediscovered and translated it anew.

Taiwan Travelogue, by Yang Shuang-zi. Translated by Lin King. 320 pages, GRAYWOLF PRESS, Fiction.

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